Bearing with Me

I haven't blogged for a while so a quick thanks for 'Bearing with Me!'. And this leads me on to the next part of my travels.

Framed by green trees, the glacier river Aare wraps itself around this pocket sized city. It passes the Marzilli-Bad, the Parliament Building, the Einstein Museum, the Munster platform, the Young Boys football ground, the Bear Pits and the Rose Garden. All the things I wanted to see whilst visiting the capital of Switzerland.

Being well known for having housed Bears in the city since 1857 this was my first stop. Although, instead of the concrete Bear Pit I was expecting to see, they have been relocated to an enclosure with green grass, logs and a bathing pool. Complete with a view of Bern!

Quite the little haven compared to the small grey hole they were in previously...

After hours of watching them play around I made my way up to the Rose Garden above.

Most people made their way up the steep hill with no interest apart from the panaramic view over the city, but I was fascinated by the perfectly formed flowers within the grounds; hundreds of them on display! Feeling like a princess in castle gardens, I had to look at every single variety.

'If I were a Rose, which Rose would I be?'.

Sticking with panoramic views, I made my way to the Munster platform. From the top is a sudden drop from which a glass elevator takes tourists to the area below. I stopped here, on the platform, for a tea, a slice of tart (almost too good I forgot to take a photograph before I ate it all!) and read my book whilst taking in the views.

Rosie and I decided we wouldn't be extravagant with food until we reached Paris, so Rosie (being a good cook) made us pasta in the Hostel. Afterwards, we went in search of a roof top bar. Although finding it was an issue it was worth it!

From the bamboo bar we ordered cocktails, walked through the sand and chose to lay on sun loungers, perfectly placed with a sunset view of the Alps. After spending a whole day in the city this was the first time I'd even noticed the snow topped mountains in the distance.

A million miles away from the hot tubs that were bubbling away behind us.

We'd arrived in Bern unaware that the usually sleepy city was full of buskers, all gathered together for the street music festival. With my love for live bands I couldn't sit and relax for long, so we joined the crowds, moving between food stalls to the next performance. 

Some performances were strange... but one band that blew me away were Micha Sportelli. I got their signed album :)

Setting my alarm for 8am, I made my way to the Einstein house and the museum, both just a short walk away from the clock tower on which he based the theory of relativity. Learning about his life's work was incredible. I literally lost track of time. 

Next on the list was the Parliament building, which houses a 214 bulb chandelier. I HAD to see it!

Unfortunately I'd forgotten my passport and couldn't get in, so instead I walked through the archway of the main doors to discover another panoramic view of the city, including a view of the local park area (the Marzili-bad), followed by the river and then the Swiss alps in the far distance. And I came to see a chandelier!?

Every inch of grass along the Mazili-bad was covered with towels, bags, and muscly, Speedo wearing men playing frisbee (I have never understood Speedos!). I found Rosie and got down to my bikini. We sat, chatted and ate ice cream.

We couldn't leave without trying a Swiss tradition. So we decided to take the plunge into the river and allow our selves to be carried past the sights by the rushing water...

...Knee deep, I see a dead mouse floating past and have second thoughts! Maaaaaaaybe not!

Instead, we take the train to Paris. 

And from Hell she found Heaven

Beauty, Renaissance, Culture and Money are all words that spring to mind when envisioning the Italian city of Florence... for most people.

I hated it!

I know I should have been in the majority, swooning over its art and treasures that line every street, very similar to Rome and Venice. I was shocked myself but it really had no positive effect on me at all.

Arriving and locating our hotel down HELL STREET probably didn't help.

Yes, it was literally named 'hell'. Which pretty much predetermined the next two days.

The street was more of an alley way, getting narrower the further you went like something from Alice in Wonderland or Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, and the ground floors were home to noisy mechanics garages. The hotel was okay, not the worst room, not the best. Basic. A little grotty but it was spacious, which is a big need after being crammed into hostel rooms full of people, packed train journeys, and hot stuffy hotel rooms. The owner was a pleasant helpful little man.

The first night we ate satisfactory food at a place where we literally pointed to things on the menu as the hostess didn't speak any English. I had bruschetta, followed by a tomato based pasta. Not the great Italian dish I had hoped for...

Afterwards, we found a lovely little corner bar with odd bright coloured steel tables and chairs. I was immediately attracted to the place as it was mostly open air and it looked busy with everyone sitting outside. We followed suit and ordered a couple of glasses of their Vino Rosso just as the Canadian couple beside our table had done and chatted with them for hours. The lady had exactly the same music taste as me; singers like Otis Reading and Paulo Nutini and their restrained voices. 'Singing with sorrow' I think she called it.

All the music talk got us in the mood for a dance. Rosie had picked up a brochure for 'Space Club'... Which I must admit looked pretty cool with its fish tank bar and after a couple of bright pink cocktails and some funny photos in the teacup style seats we were on our way to having a good night! We had Italians chatting to us, were taken to the VIP area for Prosecco & nibbles and even took part in a tattoo competition...

 

...Rosie won!

Drunk, and not able to find Rosie, I settled my bar tab and made my way back to the hotel. I'd assumed Rosie had already left. With not knowing where I was I asked a group of guys where the hotel street was and one kindly walked and pointed it out. Finally! (My feet were tired). But he had other ideas... He followed me down the alley and pinned me up against the wall and tried to kiss me. I screamed, yanked away, and desperately tried to call my friend. Luckily I always keep my phone in my hand when I'm on my own. He answered. I ran.

With me hiding in a door way 2 streets away, he stayed on the phone to me until the guy had finally stopped lingering by the hotel door and I was safe. I was about to let myself into the hotel when Rosie came striding down the street, angry that I haven't been answering my phone. The last thing I needed. I walked in with Rosie in tail, text my friend to say thank you and went to bed.

I just wanted to leave the city as soon as we could.

Of course there were positives... we saw a string band who were brilliant, I'd found a Botanical Garden on my lone wonders, and generally every where we walked there was proof of the city's art history... the Ponte di Vecchio (Old Bridge), the Cathedral 'Santa Maria de Fiore' with its beautiful Duomo (dome), the busy street markets, the impressive bakery shop displays, the Boar who's snout you rub to ensure a return to the city, Michelangelo's David, Palazzo Pitti, more Bacio Gelato, and lots more.

                  

 

One thing that had a lasting impression on me (other than the shops being lined with Pinocchio which scared the hell out of me) was the view from the Basilica di San Miniato al Monte. 

 

Starting from the Piazza G. Poggi the walk to the top isn't an easy one but if you go even further, past the panoramic viewpoint of Piazzale Michelangelo designed by architect Giuseppe Poggi, you will find the Church (Basilica di San Miniato al Monte).

 

Hungover, fed up, and worn out I sipped on my refreshing, and well deserved, cup of Strawberry Granita that I'd purchased from a vendor on the climb...

 

...and scanned the dreamy Tuscan country side.

 

Heaven.

The Peace of Return

Was this reality? Was I really on route to the city that had once given me butterflies?!

My first experience in Rome was a lovely weekend spent sight seeing, eating Gelato, and walking for miles on end, and as expected, revisiting, my stomach started to somersault, the smile had re-appeared, and I began to turn into the excited little adventure girl I had been on my last visit.

I walked out of the train station, stood and took a deep breath; consuming all the smells, sights, sounds and tastes. Letting the charm of the city overwhelm me once again.

I was infatuated.

It was fairly late so we literally checked into our hotel and set our sights on the first restaurant we could find. In search of Roman style Pizza, (Roman style is thinner with a crispy base, and Napolitian style is thicker with a softer base...being in Rome, I had to try the first!) we discovered Florian's Café just around the corner. An old guy welcomed with a "Ciao Belli", gestured to the seating inside or out, and carried on clicking and clanking the Espresso machine. We took a table outside as the weather was far from that in Berlin. And yes, I ordered the Roman style Pizza.

The two waiters made such a fuss over us and remained our friends for the rest of our stay (I think I ended up having about three Espressos per day from this place)... Panna Cotta for dessert?

Need I have been asked?!

Afterwards, we took a stroll into the historical centre. I remembered the way. Although Rosie was not convinced that 'I know Rome like the back of my hand'.

I mean, we may not have taken the fastest or easiest route to the Trevi Fountains, but we got there. Witnessing it lit up in all its glory, I followed tradition and tossed a coin into the waters, praying that I'd find a way back. Again.

Being so close to a little Irish bar I knew had a good atmosphere, I suggested that we head there. We got talking to a few Americans who then took us to the river; lined with bars and pop up restaurants during the summer months it's one place where you'll see locals and tourists mingling. We got our cocktails and plonked ourselves down on huge Moroccan style floor cushions under the candle light. Just the kind of relaxation I needed before sightseeing the next day.
 
One thing to be repeated from my first visit was to sleep with the window wide open... that was not a choice this time as we'd opted for a no air-con room (fools!). I've always slept better with noise; the bustle and liveliness are carried faintly through the night up from the street... Just a shame there was no breeze with it!

Together, we visited, and without sounding like a travel guide:

The Vatican, this time I went into the museums and saw the Sistine Chapel - AMAZING! I could have spent hours there once I'd actually reached it! I was jostled around in a herd of hot, sweaty, stop to take a photo of every little thing on display, tourists.
Navona Square.
The Pantheon. Still my favourite thing in Rome. Its dominance over the square is jolting; you walk through the little streets into this fairly small square, and there it is! You're taken aback, questioning "How can something so big and bold be here!? Amongst these tiny delicate streets?!"
The Colosseo, although this time I didn't go inside. I perched myself in the sun and read a book whilst waiting for Rosie.
The little island in the river, with the best Ice Cream shop ever! Again, the Bacio Gelato.
The Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele ll, which I have nicknamed 'The Big White House' (I had previously been to the roof of this building for a panoramic view of the city, definitely not worth a miss).

...And everything in between.


Feeling a little 'Ah! Why not do everything once" I had my palm read by one of the gypsys near to the restaurant. She told me I'd live a long life and that I'd become rich from my creative ideas... (probably spiel she feeds every tourist). I am still working on this!

We ate at Bar Navona - why? Mainly because Dave and I had eaten there before and the guy getting the custom in is hilarious! He comes up to you as soon as you start to look at the outside menu. Now, usually I hate this, but he gives this speech, somewhere along the lines of..."Welcome to the right choice! You know why you made the right choice?! Because this is Navona Square, and this *scans arm to present the restaurant* is Bar Navona". Without fail, to every customer.

We enjoyed pasta, Spaghetti Carbonara, with a bottle of red wine, and on the way back to the hotel I consumed my body weight in Bacio Gelato. Again.

Half of the time spent in Rome, Rosie and I parted for the days, I took long walks, fuelled by my new found love of the syrupy Italian Espresso. She went sightseeing, and I tried to find places I hadn't seen when there the previous time. Walking around aimlessly was joyful, I could soak in my surroundings, most of all when sitting outside restaurants reading, learning Italian and watching the world go by.

The charm with Rome is that wherever you look there is something of importance, something to appreciate. Whether it is a historical monument, a ruin, a church, or another secluded cobbled back street with shutters on every apartment door and window, lined with flower boxes and the occasional Roman man leaning on the balcony railing toking on a cigarette. A local going about their every day life amidst the chaos, the endless queuing traffic and the sound of the chattery language over the beeping of Vespa horns, the women dressed as though they are straight from a catwalk show, and the handsome men, expressing with their hands, loving through their food and wine. It's as though an accordion should be playing in the background the whole time you are there.

I felt totally at peace. I absorbed it all, let out that deep breath and smiled. As John Lennon said "It was like being in the eye of a hurricane. You'd wake up in a concert and think, Wow, how did I get here?".

Upon leaving, I knew I'd be asking myself the same question again soon.

Dipping my toes in the Floating City

When someone recommends a book to me I always make a point of reading it.

Mum had put Tell it to the Skies by Erica James in my bag. She said it'd be a good holiday read. It was! I had finished it 3 days into the trip, and low and behold... It happened to be set in our next destination. Venice.

Reading it had certainly built up expectations of the city as being full of beauty, class, romance, dreams, chance meetings, happiness and old flames relighting. I was ready to be captivated! :)

Or maybe not... :(

Getting there was a total drama...did you expect anything less?! We got so delayed on the train from Vienna that we ended up missing our transfer train from Verona main land. Debating a snooze on the platform until the 6am train, we decided to just get a hotel. Great! An extra nights hotel fee and a whole night/half a day in Venice gone.

The train ride into Venice the next morning was lovely; the weather was warm, and it seemed to brighten our moods watching the Italians cruise along the waves either side of us.

Don't hold your breath...

As soon as we got off the train....it was chaos! Rosies' case lost its wheels, which under normal circumstances would have been hilarious, but we had spent two hours in the heat going up and down, and back and forth on the river buses along the Grand Canal trying to find our hotel. 

We had even seen a willy!

Explanation: A man stood in the same queue as us for the Vaporetti (water bus),  with a little too much on display. We thought maybe he had just forgot to zip up...oh we were too innocent...the next time he turned around, his whole 'ahem' was out!! EVERYTHING! In public! We could not stop laughing. Then it dawned on me. He knew! This wasnt turning out to be the romantic place my book had made it out to be! Annoyed, I scolded him with my harshest stare. After all...How dare he scar lovely, romantic, dreamy Venice.

We had walked over and across bridges that seemed to sprout from nowhere and with no chance of calling a taxi we were literally ready to give up on life...Dramatic I know, but we were in Venice.

Then I saw a Gelateria serving Bacio Gelato! :D ALAS! WE WILL NOT SINK!

Rome was where I had started my addiction to Bacio Gelato. A Ferro Roche flavoured icecream that I literally cannot get enough of when in Italy and have to make my friends try it. No choice in the matter :) 

Minds and moods cooled....Rosie phoned the hotel owner, who confirmed that our bus port was in fact closed for the day (no wonder we were so confused!), and gave us directions, which involved more bridges and case lugging! But we got there.

The room was gorgeous, like a sanctuary....and we still had half a day to explore. Yay!After checking in and freshening up, we struggled and barged our way through a thick sea of tourists all flooding to the Rialto bridge and made our way to St Marks' Square. The queue to St Marks' Basilica was too long and it would soon be closing. 

Feeling as though I wouldn't get to see/do anything whilst there, I decided to go up to the top of the Campanile (Bell Tower of St Mark). Hands on hips and an angry pout I went up in the lift. If I couldn't get to see the cathedral from the inside, I'd see the whole of it from the outside. 

I got more than I bargained for...

Breathtaking!

When my feet touched back down, Rosie and I wandered around the square, then strolled along the waters edge admiring the stalls displaying elaborate Carnivale masks and soaking in the stunning architecture and surroundings.

Settling on an outside table at Le Cafe in Campo S. Stefano (the second biggest square in Venice), and ordering a glass of Prosecco, we people watched whilst discussing how on earth a city can survive relying on water and foot as transport?! Baffled!

Rosie, half way through a sentence was cut off by me wavering a finger for her to quickly turn around and look. "THERE!". A group of guys who we had got talking to on the delayed train had also spotted us and were walking over. What a small world. City. Same same.

We arranged to meet up at St Marks' Square later that evening, and from there, decided to eat at a place our hotel owner had recommended. Locating the original Ae Oche Pizzeria, Santa Croce 1552, wasn't hard, and it was away from the real touristy diners which I liked. 
The only way to describe this place is Italian food met American style. It was casual; perfect for 7 young, budgeting travellers who were starving!

I opted for Melon wrapped in Parma ham for starters, and also tried some of Rosies' deep fried Mozzerella balls. Yummy! For mains I ordered Spaggetti with seafood sauce. Well...Venice, water, sea, sea food. It had to be done.

We all shared a large jug of house Vino Roso (Red Wine) and after our meal, we had a nightcap in a bar close by that was packed with locals. Kicking out time came. Not wanting to go to bed, or leave the dog that had taken a liking to me and cosied up on my lap, we made our way to Erbaria square, ordered our tipples from Al Pesador restaurant and sat on the waters edge chatting and drinking. I slid off my shoes and dipped my toes into the floating city's foundations, swishing them around to make ripples. Captivated.

The next morning I woke EARLY... and took in everything around me as I strolled through the mornings' market; the fresh catch being hawled onto the iced covered fish stalls, Italian words being flung from dealer to dealer, fruit being hung and displayed ready for the customers. Customers who were all still tucked in their hotel beds :) BLISS!

Crossing over the Rialto bridge.....touristless this time. I skipped down the steps like a girly girl, letting my dress blow in the wind, like something from a movie; convinced that James Bond would be round the corner ready for me to fall into his arms... One can only dream.

Upon reaching St Marks' Square again I saw the tourists, cameras at the ready, disembarking for the cathedral tour. I turned and headed in the opposite direction, planning to...well...to get well and truely lost!

I had some logic; I knew I couldn't get off the island without water transport, so realistically I could never be too lost. And this is how I discovered the Dali museum, of whose work I studied at A Level, so I waltzed around it for about 2 hours admiring the soft, delicate, dainty sculptures he'd created. I felt like this after dipping my toes in the water, a high contrast to how I'd been feeling less than 24 hours before.

The book remains one of my favourites. It had so many unguessable twists and turns...reflecting our time in Venice perfectly. Both had managed to reduce me to tears, laughter, anger, contentness, and had left me with fond memories to look back on. I slowly and dreamily made my way back to meet Rosie at the Rialto bridge, which was now rammed with tourists.

It was time to leave.

Time to be reunited with an old flame...